Cali is a city of contrasts with rapidly rising apartment buildings whose yet unfinished frames tower above the dilapidated colonial houses and constantly encroaching tropical vegetation. Flowers and vines climb the enormous trees in plazas and along promenades, as they push back against the modern growth surrounding them, leaving a feeling of neglect upon first impression, but after a day beneath the ever changing clouds and tropical sun which beat unrelentingly upon the generations of structures throughout the city, it is unsurprising to find orchids springing from crumbling concrete or a majestic colonial mansion wedged between to modern high-rises.
The river is a full torrent after a dry summer season, and the color reflects the lode brought down from the surrounding mountains and valleys. It provides a dangerous bathing place for the down and out with graffiti marking places where some erstwhile vagabonds have perished in sudden storm surges.
Don't expect to find peace and quiet on a Saturday morning as construction continues apace with an entire street having been dug up during the day.
The city was still wiping the sleep from its eyes as a new visitor, unshowered and unshaven trod lightly into the new world all around, revealed by the morning sun.
Heading down Cl 9 through construction sites and across makeshift bridges of 2x4s, onto Av 8, past the Cali Municipal center and Acaldia, over the Rio de Cali and a series of Paseos Peatonales or walkways through the clouds of toxic diesel exhaust above the hectic multilane roads one enters into the central part of the city.
From there one weaves through the ubiquitous fruit stalls piled high with exotic items in a provocative array of colors, green vested telephone agents, shoe shiners and trinket sellers who peddle their wares of alarm clocks, wallets, jewelry and religious talismans.
Cutting through unknown alleys and across unfamiliar plazas, passing by the Iglesia San Francisco, by the pseudo ritzy area around the Intercontinental Hotel and then back across the river where one can find the Garden of the Cats.
